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Wine consumption: Will we still be drinking wine in thirty years' time?
«I love wine, but in 20 or 30 years there won't be any left...». If he hadn't preferred mineral water to grape juice, Jean-Claude Van Damme could have uttered his famous prophecy with a bottle of wine in hand. Now Vin et société, the voice of the French wine industry, is sounding the alarm. There is danger in the land of wine, and that danger is called deconsumerism.
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Has wine become an old man's drink?
The figures show that the decline in wine consumption is slow but steady: 70% less in the space of two generations. And if we dig deeper into these figures, we find that 72% of French wine is consumed by the 40+ age group... Generation Z (18-24 year olds) seems to have little demand for wine. Only 29% of this age group say they «like the taste of wine». At the same time, French winegrowers are generally ageing, which poses a serious problem in terms of taking over estates when an entire generation is due to retire without necessarily finding a buyer, given the uncertain economic and climatic conditions.
Red alert
The first category to fall victim to this decline in consumption is red wine (-32%, and not just among young people...). The icon of French gastronomy is losing market share to white and rosé wines. With the Bordeaux crisis, the Côtes du Rhône are uprooting their vines to replant with white varieties... Less meat, wine consumed as an aperitif rather than with a meal, a search for lighter, fresher, fruitier tastes... Red wine needs to change if it is not to become old-fashioned.
For him, as for the others, it's all about innovation and renewal. A light red served chilled, produced by a winegrower in the Rhône? a hit. Wine in cans rather than 75cl bottles? purists shudder, but it could be the future... To reverse the trend, we're going to have to break codes, shake up traditions and win the cultural battle that promises to be essential if wine is to remain at the heart of the French taste heritage.
Arnaud Heckmann
Trainer Bachelor, M1 & M2
Author: World history of French wine
Photo credit @MaisonBrotte
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